Why Hair Turn White
The mechanism behind hair turning white is primarily attributed to two factors. On one hand, there is the long-term accumulation of oxidative stress, and on the other hand, there is the aging and deactivation of melanocyte stem cells.
These two factors interact with each other: oxidative stress promotes aging, while aging cells secrete reactive oxygen species and inflammatory factors that exacerbate oxidative damage.
Two types of cells are crucial for successful hair pigmentation: melanocyte stem cells located in the bulge region and melanocytes located in the hair follicle matrix.
After a hair enters the growth phase, melanocyte stem cells in the bulge region are activated by signals. These cells then divide to produce new cells that migrate downstream to the hair bulb matrix. There, these cells differentiate into functional melanocytes.
Melanocytes in the matrix continuously produce melanin and transfer it to keratinocytes via synapses (similar to the process of skin tanning). Keratinocytes carrying melanin are pushed upwards as new cells divide and keratinize, forming visible hair.
In the later stages of growth, melanocytes cease melanin production and revert to melanocyte stem cells, returning to the bulge region during the resting phase, completing one cycle of the hair growth process.
Scalp cells are more prone to aging compared to facial skin cells, with melanocytes being among the fastest to age. This is because the production of melanin from tyrosine involves hydroxylation and oxidation to dopa, accompanied by the generation of large amounts of reactive oxygen species.
Melanocytes in hair follicles continuously produce melanin day and night, leading to a higher likelihood of "overwork death" due to the sustained accumulation of oxidative stress compared to melanocytes on the skin.
In a study by Wood et al. published in 2009, it was demonstrated that human white scalp hairs accumulate micromolar concentrations (very high) of hydrogen peroxide, with almost no expression of catalase, an enzyme that breaks down hydrogen peroxide. The absence of catalase indicates that oxidative stress has reached a point where it cannot be rescued.
In aging hair follicles, melanocytes lose their melanin granules and are replaced by transparent spheres, which is a typical state of cells under extreme oxidative stress.
Due to oxidative stress and the natural aging process of the body, melanocyte stem cells cease to divide and differentiate, thus unable to generate new melanocytes.
This is the entire process of hair turning gray and then white.
Therefore, to achieve the grand goal of reversing white hair to black, it is essential to have scalp care products containing antioxidant ingredients (especially those that eliminate hydrogen peroxide) and anti-aging components.
White Hair Turn How can Reverse it
This inevitably brings us to UNILIPO's Caffeine Scalp Essence, which, in response to the causes of graying hair mentioned earlier, has specifically adjusted its formula. While retaining its original efficacy in preventing hair loss, it now also simultaneously achieves the transition from white to black hair. Its key added active ingredients include
0.02% EUK-134
Sourced from IFF,Don't underestimate this 0.02%, because EUK-134 is effective at concentrations as low as 0.01% or even lower!
At the heart of EUK-134 lies the active catalytic site - the manganese (Mn) atom. Through the oxidation-reduction cycle of Mn (II), it can convert superoxide anions into peroxides, and then further convert hydrogen peroxide into water. The entire process flows smoothly, much like a combination of SOD and CAT fighting against monsters.
What sets EUK-134 apart is its enzymatic-like ability to regenerate in a cyclic manner, as it undergoes no loss during the transformation process. Moreover, with a molecular weight of less than 500 daltons, excellent skin penetration capabilities, and greater stability compared to SOD and CAT, EUK-134 can deliver exceptionally outstanding antioxidant effects with just a minimal addition.
To leverage this ingredient effectively, I have been in constant communication with the technical department of the raw material supplier IFF North America since around 2020, conducting detailed discussions on its stability and compatibility. This emboldened us to incorporate it into scalp care products.
The reason for locking onto this ingredient is its remarkable performance in hydrogen peroxide clearance experiments conducted in our laboratory. We compared it horizontally with all the antioxidants available in the market at the time. While different antioxidants had their strengths against various peroxides, none could rival EUK-134 when it came to combating hydrogen peroxide.
Hydrogen peroxide is the number one killer leading to the aging of melanocyte stem cells and the graying of hair. Using the killer's killer to combat the killer is indeed a fitting approach.
1% Darkenyl
INCI name: [LARIX EUROPAEA WOOD EXTRACT], [ACETYL TYROSINE], sourced from Givaudan Active Beauty.
Darkenyl™ is a flagship product of Givaudan, which received an award at in-cosmetics Asia shortly after its launch.
Taxifolin glucoside in [LARIX EUROPAEA WOOD EXTRACT] is a stable antioxidant that can assist EUK-134 in neutralizing peroxides. Moreover, it's incredibly valuable as it can stimulate the proliferation and differentiation of melanocyte stem cells.
[ACETYL TYROSINE] is a precursor to melanin. Its presence essentially provides raw materials for melanin synthesis, enabling malnourished hair follicles to have the necessary resources.
In vitro experiments have shown that treating human white hair follicles with 1% Darkenyl™ can stimulate melanin regeneration in just 3 days.
In a clinical controlled trial, participants used scalp care lotion containing 1% Darkenyl™ once daily for 4 consecutive months. The experimental group showed an average reduction of 17% in white hair.
Interestingly, there was significant variability in individuals' responses to Darkenyl™. The most responsive participant experienced a remarkable 56% reduction in white hair.
However, this also implies that some individuals may not respond to Darkenyl™.
I personally speculate that this correlates directly with the state of the hair follicles. If hydrogen peroxide accumulation is not too severe and stem cells are not too aged, then Darkenyl™ can indeed work wonders. However, if you wait until the stem cells are already compromised before using it, the effects may be limited.
This also underscores the urgency of scalp care. It's best to start using appropriate products before aging sets in or right at the onset of aging to maintain the optimal state.
Other Ingredients
PALMITOYL TETRAPEPTIDE-10：
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-10, commonly known as "hair peptide," is an agonist of α-MSH. Its chemical structure has a good affinity with the receptor MC1-R of α-MSH. It can bind to the MC1-R receptor on melanocytes, promote the expression of MC1-R and MITF, induce the expression and activity increase of tyrosinase, thereby promoting melanin production.
The whole process sounds a bit familiar, doesn't it? That's right, it's the opposite of the whitening approach. In whitening serums, we add α-MSH antagonists like SepiWhite and specific siRNA to inhibit MITF expression. Remember?
GLYCERYL GLUCOSIDE：
This is the main active ingredient in "SELAGINELLA TAMARISCINA".
GLYCERYL GLUCOSID Enot only possesses powerful moisturizing capabilities but also stimulates the expression of aquaporins and filaggrin, thus repairing the skin barrier.
In cell scratch experiments, GLYCERYL GLUCOSIDE demonstrated significant abilities to promote the repair and regeneration of keratinocytes. The specific molecular mechanism is not yet clear, but it is speculated to be related to its protective effects on cell membranes and biomolecules.
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