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What Exactly is Skin Glycation and How Does it Affect Your Skin?

Definition and Impact of Glycation


Glycation refers to the non-enzymatic process in which proteins, lipids, or nucleic acids covalently bond with sugar molecules to form advanced glycation end-products (AGEs).


  1. Randomness When reducing sugars (usually glucose or fructose) encounter suitable groups, such as lysine in proteins, they can randomly bind. Therefore, biological macromolecules with slower turnover, such as collagen in the dermis, have more opportunities to encounter free sugars and are more susceptible to glycation damage.

  2. Non-Enzymatic Another characteristic is that it is non-enzymatic, meaning the efficiency of glycation is directly related to the concentration of reactants. The higher the sugar concentration, the more likely glycation is to occur.


When sugar binds to collagen, it causes the collagen to deform and lose elasticity. Additionally, it leads to cross-linking between proteins, causing them to lose their physiological functions.

Once these rigid advanced glycation end-products are formed, they are difficult to degrade because the protein conformation has changed. The enzymes originally responsible for metabolizing collagen cannot recognize them, leading to long-term accumulation in the skin.


We often compare the dermis to a mattress. Glycation is equivalent to damaging the elasticity of the springs, making them hard, brittle, and clumped together. Can the surface of the mattress remain smooth under these conditions?

Additionally, during the glycation process, a large number of free radicals are released, leading to oxidative stress in the entire environment. Advanced glycation end-products can also bind to receptors on cells, promoting the release of inflammatory factors. Both inflammation and oxidative stress can further promote glycation reactions.


It can be said that once an excess amount of sugar enters the body, it creates a vicious cycle of continuous glycation.


When we consume sucrose, fructose, or refined carbohydrates, blood sugar levels rise sharply. The free reducing sugars in the blood can cause various internal health problems and also penetrate the dermal layer of the skin, causing damage.


Through methods such as immunostaining, significant glycation can be observed in aged skin. Additionally, the structural, morphological, and functional changes characteristic of skin glycation can be seen, a phenomenon researchers refer to as "glycative sagging."

Besides accelerating aging, high blood sugar levels can also lead to increased insulin and IGF-1 levels, which in turn stimulate sebaceous gland proliferation and lipid production. This explains why people's acne and clogged pores often disappear once they cut out sugar.


Additionally, the accumulation of brown advanced glycation end-products not only causes the complexion to become sallow but also activates genes responsible for melanin production, leading to hyperpigmentation.


Reducing Glycation Reactions


Strictly controlling sugar intake is a necessary but not sufficient condition for reducing glycation reactions in the body. Research has found that strictly controlling blood sugar for four months can reduce the formation of glycated collagen by 25%.


In addition to drinking fewer sugary beverages and eating fewer refined carbohydrates, we can also control blood sugar spikes by changing the order of food consumption.


Studies have shown that eating vegetables and protein 10 minutes before consuming carbohydrates can reduce the maximum increase in blood sugar by about 44%. Therefore, during meals, it is recommended to eat vegetables first, then meat, and finally the main carbohydrate dish.

In addition to controlling sugar, it is also important to control the intake of AGEs (advanced glycation end-products). High temperatures contribute to the formation of AGEs, and foods cooked at high temperatures, especially meats high in protein and fat, contain particularly high levels of AGEs. Therefore, to control AGEs, it is advisable to eat less grilled and fried foods.

Topical antioxidants and UV protection ingredients can also help prevent glycation reactions within the skin, as ultraviolet rays and reactive oxygen species promote glycation. Antioxidants can also reduce the damaging effects of AGEs on the skin.


For example, the C3Px combination previously announced by our laboratory can significantly inhibit the formation of AGEs.



We speculate that this is directly related to the physical protection of biomolecules by Ectoine and the antioxidant properties of Bakuchiol.


Reversing Glycation


While we can effectively reduce or prevent glycation by reducing sugar intake, controlling blood sugar, using antioxidants, and protecting against UV damage, is it possible to reverse the glycation of already glycated biomolecules?


It's difficult because, as I mentioned earlier, advanced glycation end-products (AGEs) are hard to break down due to structural changes that make them unrecognizable by enzymes. However, there are a few promising topical ingredients that might help.


  • Carnosine

Foremost among these is carnosine. It is a dipeptide composed of β-alanine and L-histidine, and it has two main anti-glycation effects.

On one hand, it can sacrificially bind to reducing sugars, thereby protecting other biomolecules from damage. More importantly, carnosine can recognize and bind to already glycated proteins, promoting the thermal denaturation and degradation of the damaged proteins.


  • Collrepair™ DG

Another skincare ingredient known for reversing glycation is BASF's Collrepair™ DG, which can remove approximately 20 years' worth of AGE accumulation in people aged 60-69, improving skin tone and elasticity. Unfortunately, BASF has not disclosed the specific molecular mechanisms involved.


  • Ingredients that Promote Autophagy

Additionally, ingredients that promote autophagy, such as pterostilbene and P&G's Nymphaea Alba Extract, can also help remove and recycle advanced glycation end-products (AGEs). These glycated biomolecules are essentially non-functional cellular waste, and the autophagy system acts as the cell's housekeeper, responsible for cellular renewal.


Intermittent fasting's ability to reduce AGEs is likely due to its activation of autophagy.


Conclusion


Some longevity science experts abroad believe that aging is a disease that can be halted or even reversed through healthy eating, proper exercise, and supplements. Many of them have already started to control their sugar intake, with some consuming less than 50 grams of carbohydrates per day. They do this not only to maintain their physique but also to prevent aging problems caused by glycation.


I don't go to the extremes that these experts do, as the joy and satisfaction from carbohydrates and sweets also contribute to longevity. However, I have been aware of the glycation issue for a long time and have been taking steps to mitigate it using the methods mentioned above.

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