The typical method of using face oil involves massaging the face with oil after washing it, without rinsing it off. Immediately following, saturate a cotton pad with toner and apply it to the face. After a few minutes, rinse off (or leave on) the products.
The scientific rationale behind the oil application method
The primary component of oil is triglycerides, which is an ester formed by glycerol and three fatty acids.
If the oil is of plant origin, it also contains other nutrients, such as fatty acids. Fatty acids consist of a carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and a long alkyl chain. They are not linked to glycerol and are thus called free fatty acids.
These alkyl chains can vary in length and saturation, forming functionally diverse fatty acids. In addition to triglycerides and fatty acids, plant oils also contain monoglycerides, diglycerides, phospholipids, sterols, fatty alcohols, fat-soluble vitamins, and other fat-soluble active ingredients.
Therefore, oils, especially plant-based oils, possess varied skincare effects. We often feel moisturized when applying oil after essence because of the protective role of triglycerides. They help lock moisture firmly inside the skin, making the skin soft and elastic.
However, when we use the oil application method by applying oil as the first step in skincare, the oil acts as a penetration enhancer, aiding in the absorption of active ingredients.
Zooming in on the intercellular space, we can observe that it is primarily composed of lipids, including ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, and water. Lipids form multiple layers of lipid bilayers between corneocytes, similar to mortar, binding the corneocytes together.
Due to the thorough cornification (hardening) of corneocytes and the tight, orderly structure of the intercellular space, a good barrier is formed.
When we apply oil through massage and wet compress, it increases the permeability and depth of penetration of free fatty acids. Some fatty acids can even penetrate into the dermis. The penetration of external oils directly changes the proportion and structure of lipid components in the skin.
Because these fatty acids, especially oleic acid and linoleic acid, have structures that are quite different from the fatty acids present in the intercellular space (the fatty acids in the skin are straight and long, while oleic acid has a big bend).
Therefore, once they enter the intercellular space, these fatty acids will enlarge the gaps, increase fluidity, and open cellular pathways to the external environment. Additionally, wet compresses enhance the skin's hydration, further opening the channels.
Let's briefly discuss hydration and its role in enhancing permeation. Hydration refers to the process where external moisture increases, causing proteins and moisturizing factors within corneocytes to absorb water. As a result, the cells swell and soften, and the channels on the cell membrane expand, facilitating the penetration of active ingredients. Moreover, hydration alters the structure of the phospholipid bilayers in the intercellular space, enlarging the gaps, which also aids in the penetration of active ingredients through the intercellular space.
In addition to the interference and hydration effects of fatty acids on the intercellular space, the alcohols present in toners act as cosolvents for fatty acids, further enhancing their penetration and interference effects.
In this state, the active ingredients from plant oils and toners quickly penetrate the skin, effectively providing a moisturizing mask-like effect. If the right products are used, the skincare results can be quite satisfactory.
At this point, it's crucial to emphasize the key factor: "using the right products"!
How to choose the right products？
Firstly, it's essential to choose the right oil. Different oils have varying proportions of fats and fatty acids. To achieve the desired penetration enhancement effect, opt for oils rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid, and terpenes.
If mineral oil or other synthetic triglycerides, or saturated fat-rich oils like coconut oil, are used, not only do they fail to enhance penetration, but they can also reduce the absorption of subsequent ingredients. This is because their larger molecular weight causes them to remain on the skin's surface, hindering penetration.
Facial oils primarily composed of seabuckthorn oil, soybean oil, olive oil, and camellia oil are more suitable for oil application.
Next, it's important to choose the right toner. If the toner contains minimal active ingredients, it wastes an opportunity for penetration enhancement. Additionally, if it contains controversial ingredients such as irritating preservatives, it may not be beneficial for skincare and could potentially harm the skin.
And our UNILIPO Face Oil is enriched with a blend of plant oils rich in unsaturated fatty acids. Both the oil and toner are packed with versatile skincare ingredients such as 【Bakuchiol】 and 【Acetyl Zingerone】. Applying this oil during winter, when sebum production is low, can provide a luxurious skincare experience, leaving both your skin and mood feeling delightful.
The precautions
Here are some precautions to keep in mind: Due to the potential interference with the skin barrier (although this interference tends to self-correct), oil application, much like using a face mask, isn't suitable for daily use. It's best to limit it to once or twice a week. When using oil regularly, it's preferable to incorporate it into later steps of your skincare routine.
Additionally, individuals with sensitive skin or skin conditions should exercise caution. Mineral oil and synthetic triglycerides, which are not suitable for oil application as they tend to remain on the skin's surface, may actually be suitable for daily use for these skin types.
Furthermore, when applying oil, it's essential to avoid the eye area. Getting oil in the eyes can be extremely uncomfortable and challenging to remove, even with eye drops.
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